Wild and Beautiful Laos

For more pictures click album 1, album 2 and album 3

Katrine and I had extremely high expectations about Laos. A majority of the people we have met, who have travelled in South East Asia, had already awarded Laos with the 'Best Country Award'. Like with a movie that has received an Academy award, you obviously have high anticipations about a country that has received so much praise from fellow travellers. It can be a bit unfair, I guess, to go to a place having too high expectations. This will surely make it harder for that place to redeem. This was the case of Laos.

We crossed the boarder from Thailand into Laos by boat crossing the mighty Mekong River. On the other side it was all pretty chaotic, with lack of information and people running wild with our passports going crazy when we were asking politely to get our passports back. Our initial plan was to take the 'slow boat' down the river, all the way to Luang Prabang, a two day journey. But we changed our minds when we found out that we could go by bus instead, and arrive the same night. At least that is what we were told. When we first asked it was a nine hour bus ride leaving 'now'. Then someone told us it was 11 hour, leaving 'soon'. Asking a third person, we were now told it was a 12 hour bus ride arriving at 11 p.m. It ended up 13 hours on the bus, arriving Luang Prabang (LP) at two in the morning! And just to make it even worse the bus driver stopped around seven kilometres outside the city centre, where some of his friends (at least we assume they were) were waiting for us like blood hounds to take us into town for 10 times the tourist price (meaning 20 times normal price). And when we got to the city centre everything was closed, or rather barricaded. Luckily we were a good group of people travelling together. We had met five cool Chilean guys on the bus from Chiang Mai a few days earlier, whom we were to stick with fro the 10 days or so. The eighth member of the group was a guy from South Africa. Like restless zombies we roamed the dark streets of LP for more than two hours, knocking on the doors of more than 20 guesthouses before someone would let us in. By that time we were seriously considering sleeping outside one of the wats (temples). The first 20 hours of our Lao experience had been everything but great. We hoped for better days ahead, and fortunately they were. LP presented itself from a much better side the next day.

Group shot from our first night in Laos. At least we all look happy...

The UNESCO-protected World Heritage City of Luang Prabang is truly beautiful and charming. The old city, were we were staying, is built on a peninsula with the Mekong River making a natural moat around the city. French colonial architecture mix nicely with traditional Laotian and Buddhist architecture. In the middle of the city is a big hill. If you climb the steps to the top you will be rewarded with a beautiful wat and a spectacular 360 degree view. And if you are there at the right time you will witness one of the most magic sunsets you can imagine.

The first day was spent biking and walking around the city center. On the second day we (the Chileans, Mr. South Africa and us) went to Pak Ou, around 25 kilometers upstream the Mekong River. Pak Ou is a holy place and famous for its limestone caves filled with Buddha sculptures.

For 'good luck' you can buy different birds and animals and then release them. They will most likely be recaptured soon after, and then resold to other tourists.

Later that same day we went to see the amazing waterfalls of Tat Kuang Si. As I wrote in an earlier post, for a waterfall to impress a Norwegian it has to be pretty spectacular, and this one certainly was. The river system of Tat Kuang Si consists of a series of smaller waterfalls and pools and one big waterfall at the top. The pools and waterfalls look almost artificial and the colours of the water are verdiris green and clear blue and turquoise. It was the perfect place to take a dip, although it was a bit too cold to really enjoy it... The park also has a rescue center for bears that have been confiscated from traffickers and poachers.

The pools and waterfalls of Pak Ou look more like a man-made amusement park than a natural river system. Every morning in Luang Prabang the monks walk through the city collecting food and other things from the locals.

The following morning we left the South-African guy behind and caught a minibus down to Vang Vieng. When we arrived at the bus station the bus guys tried to disregard all physical laws and squeeze way too many people into one minivan. It took us almost one hour of heavy verbal arguing, and not until 'chica' (Daniela, the Chilean girl) physically pushed one of the local guys into the minivan they understood that we wouldn't fit. Well done chica! Once on the road it took us about seven hours to get to Vang Vieng (VV). The extraordinary nature of Northern Laos really unfolded as we moved southwards. The scenery in VV was also truly spectacular. Our room only contained a mattress on the floor and a mosquito net, but we had a magnificent view of the river and the mountains, and it was cheap!

Vang Vieng is more or less famous for one thing, that is the activity of tubing. For you who aren't familiar with the Laotian Tubing, it means floating down the river on an inner tube only conveyed by the current of the river. It may not sound very exciting, but all the 'watering holes' along the river don't only make sure people aren't dehydrated. Most of the bars attract the 'tubers' with free shots and some serious water activities, or they simply throw the 'rescue line' in your head... Some people, or should I say most people, tend to get a bit too drunk and start acting like Supermans and Catwomen, which often end up in bad injuries. A few people have actually drowned, and believe me, the river is not that vehement... Anyway, it was fun and the water wasn't too cold once you got used to it. Another strange Vang Vieng feature is the 'Friends' restaurants. These restaurants are showing the TV series Friends non-stop. I'm sure Jennifer Aniston and her colleagues receive a large sum in royalties from these places; or perhaps not... It isn't a bad idea though, but I wish they had a Seinfeld and a Simpson restaurant as well.

One classic example of a wannabe catwoman without the power of a super hero (pic 1); one guy who actually hold at least one of superman's powers (pic 2); and a water slide that doesn't require any super powers at all.

Our last stop in Laos was its capital, Vientiane. We only stayed here one night, so we didn't see too much of the city, but honestly, I don't think we missed out on anything extraordinary. Sitting on the river front watching the sun set behind the Mekong River one last time was very pretty though. All things considered, Laos was alright. It didn't live up to our expectations, which probably was too high in the first place. It was more expensive than what we've been told, the people were a bit reserved and didn't speak much English, and we had some awful restaurant experiences. However, the natural beauty and the good times we shared with our new friends surely made it memorable in many good ways as well.

Thailand Part 2 - More than just 'Neo-Syden'...

For more pictures click album 1 and album 2

I've been really busy lately, that's why the cyber-version of Torstein's world has been so stagnant. However, the real world has not been stagnant at all. Over the next few weeks I hope to show you the rest of the amazing Asian adventure. Here comes the second, and final, part of our Thai experience...

Before I continue the story in north Thailand, I have to tell you a funny story from Bangkok. Five years ago me and my buddy Per were in Bangkok where we bought some tailor-made suits. I remember that they took a picture of us, posing in our new outfits, but I never thought I would see that picture again... Now, five years later, I walk into the same tailor shop. I talk to one of the guys there asking about prices etc. I told him that I had been a costumer back in the old days, and suddenly he asks if I bought a winter coat last time I was here, which I did. 'Yes'. The next thing that happens is that he pulls me over to one side of the shop and points to a big picture of Per and I! "This picture has been good business for us" he said smiling and certain that I would continue to be a costumer of his...

Then and now, five years later!

Since we were going back to Bangkok again after touring around Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia, we decided to stay for just one night before getting on the road again, or rather on the rail this time. We took the night train to Chiang Mai, the biggest city in the northern part of Thailand. As Lonely Planet so eloquently puts it, Chiang Mai (CM) is a 'cool place to kick back and soak up the Thai-ness that may been missed on the beaches of the south coast'. The city and the region as a whole has a unique cultural heritage, which is displayed nicely through the 300+ temples in CM. We arrived CM at the same time as the sun. The cool air reminded us that the northern hemisphere is still lulled in winter, and it was an indicator on what we were to expect for the next couple of weeks. It was a bit hard to get used to wearing shoes, socks, trousers and sweaters again. During daytime, however, it got nice and warm. On the first day in CM we walked around the old city admiring a few of its many temples, with all its glitter and gold and the peaceful monks dressed in orange.

Later that day we went to the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre where elephants are given medical treatment and young elephants are being trained to do all kinds of crazy things. The elephants can for instance make paintings of trees and flowers, play soccer, play harmonica, throw darts at balloons, and swing their trunk like a fan (!)... On the second day we went on a full day tour with elephant riding, trekking through the jungle to a waterfall (the waterfall wasn't very impressive. Keep in mind that Norway has some spectacular waterfalls...), white water rafting (not too exciting rapids, but nice scenery), and bamboo floating (useless way of transporting tourists down the river). Perhaps I don't sound too enthusiastic about the tour, but it was good overall, although our guide was pretty annoying, running around with a megaphone in the jungle (!). That night we went to the huge night bazaar, and later to a Lady Boy bar from where we were watching live Thai boxing, a very interesting combination...

Two days packed with fun were over and the next morning we headed off to Chiang Kong, a small town situated on the bank of the Mekong River. Our hostel was overlooking the river and Laos on the other side. As we were sitting at the restaurant talking to our new friends suddenly the whole sky was lit by a huge firework sent off from the Lao side. And, two hours later it started again. This time even bigger. We don't know why, but we figured out that it was all arranged to welcome us to Laos the next day. Was this how Laos would be; fireworks every night, to honour us? Well, not exactly... See what happened in Laos in the next post. Coming to a computer near you!

Thailand Part 1 - The Ultimate 'Neo-Syden'...

For more photos of 'neo-Syden' click album 1, album 2

After a few relaxing days on Langkawi, we were off to the all time Scandinavian favorite, Thailand. Thailand to me is the ultimate 'neo-Syden'. Most of you Norwegians reading this blog are familiar and probably very comfortable with the concept of 'Syden'. When explaining this concept, some of my foreign friends have found it quite amusing. For you who don't know it, let me explain it very briefly. Traditionally 'Syden' has been the warmer areas of southern Europe; places with beaches, cheap food and drinks; places that are a little different but not too different from home. In Syden you can get Norwegian food, Norwegian newspapers and you'll meet Norwegians working in the restaurants etc. Another characteristic is that you can go on charter or package tours directly from Norway. Traditional Syden destinations are, for instance, Mallorca, Cyprus, the Greek islands, the Canary Islands etc. You get the picture. In recent years, however, Syden as a geographic area has broadened and Thailand, among other non-Mediterranean countries, has emerged as a top Syden destination; or what I will call 'neo-Syden'.

Anyway, from Langkawi we took the boat across the border and got on shore in Satun, a city that doesn't have too much to offer, so we went straight to Krabi. Krabi is a quiet and charming town worth staying for a day or two, although it is not too exciting. We stayed here one night only, but we had time to walk around the night market and go on a boat trip up the river to see a cave and a fish farm. Early next morning we were picked up and started the journey towards the famous Phi Phi Islands. Phi Phi is not only known for its towering mountains, pristine beaches, and marine life. The islands were also devastated by the tsunami in 2004. On the main island, Ko Phi Phi Don, which is the only island that is inhabited, around 5000 people was killed by the tsunami. Today it is all rebuilt and not much remind you of that tragic event four years ago.

Krabi is a small and charming city nicely situated by a river. We had an interesting encounter with a few of the inhabitants of the fish farm...

To get to the Phi Phis we booked a day trip to some of the islands, and as the tour stopped at Phi Phi Don for lunch we grabbed our luggage and left the group. The next two days were spent here, on one of the most touristic islands you can imagine. We hadn't seen too many Scandinavians on our travels so far, but Phi Phi almost gave us an overdose...

The islands around Phi Phi Don are stunningly beautiful, if you manage to see past the masses of tourists, which isn't always so easy. For instance, we stopped at the famous 'the Beach', known from the movie with the same name, and we literally had to fight our way through all the speedos in world. At least that is how it felt. 'The Beach' was more packed than Bondi Beach on a hot Australian summer day. But again, with a little effort, you can see through the crowds and experience some extraordinary natural pieces of art. Imagine to be the only one there! I made an effort to capture these natural sights without too many people spoiling them, and I think it worked. However, here is one showing how the Phi Phi islands really look like....

On one of the days we went sea kayaking. We figured it would give us a better chance to get a bit away from biggest crowds, and we were right. Although Monkey Beach was quite packed at times, we had some moments almost by ourselves. After two days of Swedish meatballs, Norwegian waffles, Russians wearing stilettos on the beach, restaurants named 'Viking-something' and techno music it was time to move on. We took the ferry to Phuket, on the other side of the Andaman sea. In Phuket we stayed for one night, in the city, before taking the long road up to 'the Venice of Asia', also known as Bangkok, and further up to the north of Thailand.

Sea kayaking is a nice way of escaping the biggest boat-loads of tourists

The next part of our Thai adventure is under construction, but will be out soon. So stay tuned for 'Thailand Part 2 - More than just 'Neo-Syden'!!

Hospitalized in Kuala Lumpur

For more photos click album

Was it the Christmas dinner? Or was it the 'not-so-well-done' fried egg I had for lunch? Or perhaps it was the toxic water I swallowed in Kuta? Whatever the cause, my stomach and body wasn't happy at all. As I told you in the previous post, I was pretty stupid and went shopping and surfing in the heat, even though I was suffering from fever, dizziness and dehydration. After spending a whole day in Bali waiting for our flight, we arrived Kuala Lumpur (KL) at two in the morning, where we spent another night at the airport, this time on a bench though... I woke up the next morning feeling very dizzy and having stomach cramps. We stumbled around the airport for a while, being a bit worried as I had discovered blood in the diarrhea. (Maybe too much information.) Anyway, we got to Chinatown where we checked in at the worst hostel we've been staying in on this trip. For the rest of that day I wasn't feeling any better, but we decided to stay there overnight (after consulting our medic friend, Tore, on phone from Norway) and pay a visit to a doctor in the morning. Katrine was also feeling a bit sick, but fortunately she was feeling better than me. By the way, it is pretty nice to travel around with a personal nurse;)

Our first hostel in KL. Not the best place to be sick. The hospital was a lot better.

The first picture shows the view from our hospital room. It was quite nice at midnight when the fireworks started. The Petronas Twin Towers are world famous, both for their height and architecture.

The next day we went to the emergency room at one of Malaysia's better hospitals. One hour later I was receiving fluids and antibiotic through a tube while enjoying the view of KL's skyline from my private room on the seventh floor. We got an extra bed for Katrine, and that's how Glenewagles Medical Center was to be our 'hotel' for the next two nights, one of them being New Years Eve! I had probably been food poisoned in Indonesia and I was very dehydrated when we arrived the hospital. (Later we found out that I had dysentery.) We went for a couple of 'home leaves', which we spent window shopping at some of KL's many huge shopping malls. This made us feel even more dizzy, so it didn't take long before we crawled back into our hospital beds. New Years Eve was spent in bed watching the Pirates of the Caribbean Trilogy on TV. Not the most exiting start of the new year, but definitely memorable. When we were 'released' from the hospital it was time for real shopping and sightseeing. Actually, before we left the hospital, Katrine was also prescribed some antibiotic. So, high on nasty bacterias and antibiotic we jumped on a tour bus to take us around the city. We went to see the majestic Petronas Twin Towers, made some great bargains in Jalan Petaling (the market in Chinatown) and walked up the 227 steps to the famous Batu Caves.

KL is a nice city. It is very multicultural and has a somehow calm atmosphere, for a big city. Our stay here was a bit hectic as we moved six (!) times and stayed in five different places (including the airport) in seven days. One of these places being a nice Arabic 'home stay' in the Arabic Square. Our stay became longer than we had planned for, but KL is definitely not the worst place to get stuck for a few days, and especially if you need medical treatment. It is not cheap though, so I am glad I have travel insurance. (I have already been refunded everything!)

From KL we took one of Malaysia's luxurious buses (only three seats in each row and great space for your legs) to Alor Setar, from where we caught a taxi to Kuala Kedah and then with boat to the island of Langkawi. Langkawi (situated on the north west coast) is one of Malaysia's hottest tourist spots, and it has a lot to offer, including tax-free shopping... However, we didn't feel like doing too much the two days we were there, except laying on its fine white sand beaches, swim in the warm, clear ocean, and eat fried rice. We rented a sea kayak for a couple of hours just to get some exercise and to get to a small island with a beautiful beach. We stayed in Pantai Chenang, on the western part of the island, so we enjoyed beautiful sunsets.

The white sand beaches in Langkawi

The sunset made us a little bit corny....

From Malaysia we headed into Thailand...the adventure continues exclusively on torsteinsworld